• Tommy D
  • Tommy D
  • Tommy D

Design & Creation

Designing begins by liaising with the individual client to determine what the client’s needs and wants are, as well as to give me the opportunity to visualise the design in my mind.

When we are both satisfied with the concept and I have a better understanding of the particular piece of jewellery, I then do a rendering in colour of different variations of the individual piece.

These rendered designs are then presented to the client for further discussion, so that the client can visualise and better understand what I’m about to create for them. Once the client and I are in agreement, I will then begin the manufacturing process.

Jewellery pieces are generally made up in 18ct gold or platinum. Fine gold is always used to create the new jewellery pieces. This means I do my own alloying starting from 24ct gold, I can alloy white/yellow or pink gold. The gold comes in nugget or droplet form and this gets melted in a crucible until liquid. It is then poured into an ingot in the form of a bar. This bar of gold/platinum is then rolled by hand into the desired shape, whether it is a flat plate or a long piece of square wire.

Different designs require different bending, soldering and hammering methods to create the desired jewellery piece.

Once I’ve formed and sculpted the gold, it requires sanding to a fine finish; it’s then polished with varied polishing compounds.

The piece of jewellery is now ready to prep for setting of the stones. The setting methods are discussed during the design process and an appropriate setting method is used to create the best visual effect for the individual’s stones.

There are many different ways to set stones. (Pictured below from left to right are Pave, Micheal B, Tube and Claw Settings)

Types of stone settings

Apart from the above settings there are many more amazing ways to set stones.

Once the stones are set, the jewellery piece is now ready for the final sanding and polishing. After achieving a satisfactory polished finish, the jewel is then washed in an ultrasonic cleaner to remove all excess polish.

The final step in creating a beautiful jewel is to rhodium plate the white areas by way of electric current and a rhodium solution. This leaves a thin layer of rhodium on the selected areas on the piece and gives a very white iridescent appearance.